COCAINE PRETTI

POP PR PRESS DAYS, Part II

A PRESS REVIEW

Here at COCAINEPRETTI, we love accessories and appreciate the designers who focus on them. In a continued review of POP PR's press day, I highlight a few of my personal favorites.

I'll start with the charismatic, Italian-born designer Emmanuel Katsaros; who as any other Italian, knows the value of quality leather. This is where he takes his start in creating his collection. Choosing the top quality materials, he creates pieces for those who appreciate it as much as he does. His vintage-style creations are always touched up with a small, cute detail. For example, the silver tooth that he uses as an ornament on cardholders.

Another brand worth close attention is Pyrrha. They create their collections from medieval-like sealed letters and symbols, comparing the process of making the jewelry with creating the amulets that are pure and sincere.

Finally, I’d like to talk about the collection of Dublin-base, young jewelry designer Merle O’Grady. It's so bright, vivid and modern, though her inspiration initially comes from the 18th century chandeliers. Using antique crystals and metal framing, she brings a very feminine yet edgy jewelry line.

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POP PR PRESS DAYS, Part I

A PRESS REVIEW

COCAINEPRETTI attended the special press event by POP PR agency, where they presented the F/W '13 collections of their clients. Before I start sharing the ‘backstage’ highlights, I would like to say a couple of words about this exciting event in general.

Held in the curt office of POP PR on Great Portland Street in London, it felt very intimate from the first step into the space. The agents, who were very helpful, definitely upheld the company’s name thanks to their POPing personalities and positive energy. The designers' collections were very interesting and sometimes even extravagant. To give you a better understanding, I decided to highlight those which I found most essential and divide the whole experience into two categories: pret-a-porter and accessories.

As we start with the ready-to-wear, it is worth mentioning that majority of the presentation was womenswear and only one brand managed to create a collection for men. A La Deposition duo, Lynda and Daniel, made their debut into menswear fashion, which, in fact, was very impressive. Naming the collection ‘The Black Snow’, they specified the color palette;mainly consisting of grey and black with white splashes. The attention is emphasized on the shapes and silhouettes.

A very impressive collection of womenswear was created by recognized designer Ashley Isham, who found his inspiration in a set of Helmut Newton photography and an American science fiction movie shot in the 1970s by Michael Anderson. Ashley twisted his signature draped silhouettes into something more structural, yet making it wearable and practical. The exquisite materials let the garments flow and stay beautifully fitted at the same time.

A personal favorite of mine-collection made by Ukrainian-born designer Natasha Zinko, is very different on the aesthetic level. It is a devotion to the Japanese culture, full of dragon-like shapes and Kimono-inspiring details. Very elegant, cut in bold colors and paired with fierce hand-crafted footwear and embroidered head-pieces, reveals Natasha’s talent as a jeweler designer.

Among others I would like to mention and discuss the collection of Patrick Li, who again showed his outstanding skills in garment construction and proved that his experience in Victor&Rolf and Hussein Chalayan were not in vain. The woman of Patrick Li looked sexy and confident as her outfit was perfectly tailored with a hint of modern chic.

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DIORALOP x UNDERGROUND SHOES | 4

A look at the a/w '13 collection with Underground Shoes | Photography: Sanja Bistricic

When we interviewed Dioralop for Cocaine Pretti, we learned of their influence, androgynous appeal, and brand aesthetic. Taking the concept of Polaroid film and interpreting that into an endless outcome of design possibilities is the collaborative mindset of Andreja and Maja, the duo behind the Dioralop.

For the a/w '13 collection, they partnered with Underground Shoes — a British fashion brand. "DIORALOP & Underground Shoes met on Capsule Fashion Fair in Paris in September 2012. We have been fans of Underground Shoes since always, so we started to hang out and fell in love with each other instantly. We became really good friends so when we were thinking about the shoes for aw 2013/2014 show, Underground Shoes fit perfectly in our concept. They were kind enough to lend us the shoes and even to come to our show," stated the duo when we curiously asked them of the collaborative affair.

The collection revolves around the number four, which is a representation of creation, as well as the beginning of material existence and matter itself. There are solids and blacks with whites in cuts that form alternative shapes and simple elegance.

Viewing the visual campaign, it appears to be somewhat of a love story. We see the tale of two opposites coexisting at the end, but the abstract knack of the film leaves you guessing.

"We always shoot videos for our campaigns as we think it is a great way to show how the clothes breathe in "real" life. We don't think much about the concept, it just happens spontaneously. We like to work without the strong concept, we just leave the moment to speak for itself and to happen. It has always worked for us, because we work with a great team. We think that people should understand it as they want to. Or not." - Dioralop Duo

View the film and read the interview.

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LOVE LUST

Love Lust | Photography: CVLC Photography

Models Phelora Elle & Lailani Dawn Mekeel with Base Model Agency - Cape Town

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MARIA CALEIS, THE FASHION ILLUSTRATOR

Maria Caleis is a fashion illustrator interested in where she takes things. | Photography: Maria Caleis

Maria Caleis is a self-taught fashion illustrator from Spain. She focuses on editorial illustration, seeking inspiration in fashion photography and design. By adding colors and focusing mainly on facial expressions of people she portrays, she brings something special to her works. This is what we knew about this inspiring fashion illustrator. Was it enough? Definitely not. We decided to have a talk with her and find out more about her life and creations.

Q+A

CP: How did you become an illustrator?

Maria: From a very unpretentious way… After many years, I used active meditation to recover the drawing as a habit. I had enough materials to create a portfolio and began uploading it into the network. Soon I saw my works published on illustration and design websites, then in magazines and orders started coming.

CP: What inspires you most in work?

Maria: I am very focused on the world of female beauty, fashion and design. Seeking current compositions, strongly visual, but with a timeless result; not markedly trendy. Inspiration comes daily to me in magazines, network, music, furniture and jewelry design, even vintage stuff. I believe style is everywhere.

CP: Do you consider yourself more as an artist or a digital illustrator?

Maria: Being self-taught brings me a bit of humility when it comes to understanding the value of myself, so I don´t feel like an artist. But if you mean the working process, my work is manual. I only make the final edition of drawings such as cleanup and contrast. Not digital at all, for the time being.

CP: How do you choose subjects for your works?

Maria: Sometimes it is a hairstyle, a pose, a look, a color combination or a special music. I draw what I like to see, what tells me something special on an aesthetic level.

CP: The people in your illustrations, are they real people or you create them?

Maria: I usually start from photos and therefore real people, to guide me through some traits, for example the way the light falls... But I am not looking for a realistic portrait. In the process they become unreal women, resemblance does not bother me. They become new characters in my hands.

CP: Is there anyone you have always been dreaming of picturing?

Maria: Although I have style icons, there is none in particular I’d wish to draw. I am not fanatical of myths at this point - seeking beauty with special character, just that for now.

CP: What is your life/work philosophy?

Maria: To work on my own direction. I am selective, because I have come late to this world of fashion illustration. My major goal is to have fun and enjoy what I am doing... I always think it is not so essential where you take things from, it is much more important where you take them to.

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THE LOW LIFE BOOK RELEASE PARTY

The Low Life book release party | Photography: Scarlett Spade

THE LOW LIFE is a lifestyle collective geared to the conveniences of men. Based in Atlanta, it's a no-bullshit guide to style, culture, and life. Stating their claim, they recently had a party to celebrate the release of their S/S '13 book.

With a cover shot of Johnny from Two9, the book is a cultural take on all things relevant. From streetwear brands and beer hubs to lifestyle and editorials, it's a one-stop shop. There's even filthy stories from Dirty Lou if you're up for inconvenient sex mishaps.

Available to the general public, tweet them a line to get a copy.

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CRINIS • 13

An interactive blend of film and photography | Photography: Woodwork

FILM and PHOTOGRAPHY have sustained as two separate mediums, each contributing it's own signature art visually. Parallel in form, we've adequately seen a merge of the two in a fashion short titled Crinis 13.

Creative studio Woodwork, Dutch photography duo Fotofloor, and production company Caviar collaborated in filling the gap between film and photography. Inspired by Man Ray, Luis Bunuel, and Fernand Leger, the model's image was cut into a digital chopping block that doubles, turns, and squeezes her into a series of kaleidoscopic forms.

“The model moves slowly; the footage is recorded in slow motion, in 120 frames per second instead of the usual 25 fps”, Marvin Koppejan explains, “in order to be able to stretch and accelerate faster in postproduction. In this way, you can make much more possible.”

With hair as an initial theme, subthemes developed including Snow White, Eve, and Lilith. Laced with words of a poem by Dante Rossetti, this is an extension of art by the merge of two art forms. With the constant technological advancements, are we in the age of a new medium?

View The Film.

Credits:

Model: Soekie Director: Fotofloor Produced by: Caviar Edit & Post: Woodwork Motion Director: Marvin Koppejan Executive Producer: Jacques Vereecken Producer: Koen Barnhard Director of Photography: Job Kraaijeveld Final Grading: Balster van Duijn Gaffer: Laurens Eindhoven Grip: Daan Dillo Hair: Ilham Mestour Make Up: Barbra Oliemans Styling: Pleasurements Studio: Ernstige Zaken Rough Edit: Gert Willem Visser Audio Post: HaaiFaai Deluxe

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JEFF HAHN

A new take on fashion photography | Photography: Jeff Hahn

Photography can be an impersonal and personal viewpoint on a subject or an alternating reality to how a subject is perceived. It's an art form we expect constant stimulation from.

Viewing the work of Jeff Hahn, his use of light to capture a given moment is a breath of fresh air. Often saturating images with a 1970s-style hue, the vivid contrast excites the eye, really drawing you into the photography.

Based in London, the twenty-three-year-old photographer has an extensive client list of mentionable favorites. Featured in group shows in London, New York, and Hong Kong, Hahn is establishing a reputation worthy of more than a 140 character tweet.

Projects: The Next Best Thing to Loving You

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A PRESS REVIEW

A PRESS REVIEW

A look at the a/w '13 collection with Underground Shoes | Photography: Sanja Bistricic

Love Lust | Photography: CVLC Photography

Maria Caleis is a fashion illustrator interested in where she takes things. | Photography: Maria Caleis

The Low Life book release party | Photography: Scarlett Spade

An interactive blend of film and photography | Photography: Woodwork

A new take on fashion photography | Photography: Jeff Hahn

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