BitchingandJunkfood has been on the Pretti radar for about two years now. Developing as an online store, they've now become a London based power house for all things wonderfully bitchy. In an exclusive interview, we get details on the new studio space, the new BITCHY team member and the collection for Urban Outfitters.
COCAINE -What is BitchingandJunkfood? Would you consider it a lifestyle?
B&J - Yeah, bitching and junkfood is a lifestyle, although we're reigning in the junkfood. What we've created is all about fun, bitching in a healthy way, letting off steam. The fashion industry is so serious and we just wanted to have a laugh. You work so hard and we have a motto "if it's not fun it's not worth doing."
COCAINE -How did the idea of BitchingandJunkfood form and what was the experience like developing the idea?
B&J - I always knew I wanted to have my own business and we launched the store as [a] small online vintage venture. I have a background in design and having my own label was all part of the plan, but I didn't realize how quickly it would happen. I had reached a point in my career where I was bored designing for other people and I felt like I was constantly trying to fit into someone elses aesthetic. I'm a stubborn bitch so this was destroying my soul, as was my comfortable lifestyle. I packed everything up, moved out of my flat and moved into a big warehouse in a warehouse district in London. I just opened my mind to new things, new people and was massively inspired to start making things happen. It's been a huge personal sacrifice and I pretty much holed myself away for a year and did nothing but work. Nobody really prepares you for how tough it's going to be, but it was completely worth it.
The website rapidly developed into two labels and mutliple collaborations. Since making that initial decision, its grown really organically and we've just rolled with it. We were approached by various people to get involved in different things and we always struggled to say no. It's been a huge amount of hard work to get it to where it is after a year and a half and it's going to be an even bigger effort to get it to where we want to go, but we love every minute of it.
COCAINE -What are some of your in-house brands and how do you go about selecting them?
B&J - We stock Cheap Monday, Daniel Palillo(new for SS), Neurotica, KTZ, Long Clothing, Emma Ware, Oops...the list goes on. We select brands that we would want in our own wardrobe. We try to steer clear of the "selecting what the customer wants" cliche. This is our shop, it's our taste and it's about sharing what we like with people who get what we're doing. We don't want to please all of the people all of the time, but the people we do please are passionate about what we do. It's not about mass market for us, it's about a little "cool stuff" niche.
COCAINE -You've collaborated with Urban Outfitters to design pieces specifically for them. How did this collaboration develop? Can we expect more collaborative efforts this year?
B&J - This really is a match made in heaven. The Urban team is cool and really encouraging. They're making it very easy for us to develop. We always said we don't work with people we don't like just to make money - we love all the crew there so it's a really nice experience for us. We intially collaborated with them on a jewellery collection of headdresses and it was a massive success. The jewellery buyer introduced us to the Renewal buyer and we started working on some more pieces for them, which sold out in a couple of weeks. They're now rolling us out to all their European stores and we're launching a menswear range with them. They give us freedom to really push it and aren't afraid to take chances, which really works for us as a business.
COCAINE -Does BitchingandJunkfood design with fashion or style? Is there a mix of the two?
B&J - We're more about style really. Obviously we keep an eye on the key trends. We have two labels, Remade and TWO WEEKS, and I have to say that they're really more about style. We design for girls who just have the X - they're not constantly chasing catwalk trends, they're just effortlessly cool. With Remade it's all about the shorts and the trimmings have a nod to fashion trends but there will always be studs - they're just a basic at this point. With TWO WEEKS it's about style. It's a gradual progression through seasons, it's anti fast fashion. The whole industry is so fast paced, this is much more laid back, less frenetic, not constantly re-inventing.
COCAINE -There should be a significant moment in fashion/style within a decade. Did we have that significant moment this past decade?
B&J - For me it was Vivienne Westwood collecting her OBE in 1992 with no knickers on. Everyone is so PC these days. She's bonkers, she doesn't give a shit and that's brilliant - she proves that you don't have to do anything by the book to be a success and that in itself is a massive inspiration for us.
COCAINE -Who would you list as "designers to watch for"?
B&J - Personal faves are Meadham Kerchoff, David Koma, Belle Sauvage, KTZ and Horace we love Australian labels Ksubi, Sass and Bide and Elliot Ward Fear. I also liked what I saw from Norma Kamali this season and we've always got an eye on Alexander Wang. Givenchy is my all time favorite.
COCAINE -Being based in London, what is the fashion culture like there? Are there similarities to the states?
B&J- We have an eye on stateside street culture through blogs. To a certain extent, there are similarities. London is so eclectic. Depending on the area you visit you will find completely different looks. Youth culture has historically been very strong and massively influential here and London has really been a hub for that.
COCAINE -What advice would you give people looking to launch their own platform in fashion?
B&J - Think, think think and it will come to you. Don't try to force it. Get advice from your family and friends, having them behind you and believing in you is the single most important thing. Read, research and think again. It's just as important to know the business of fashion as the design side and there really is nothing you can't learn from a book and asking advice from others. Don't be afraid to ask people questions - don't ask, don't get. Also, never assume that just cause someone has worked in the industry longer than you that they are right. Trust your instinct. It's seldom wrong.
If you are thinking of starting a label, a market is always a good place to start off. If you chose the right market, you'll get picked up by press and potential buyers.
COCAINE -A BITCHING must have for the spring/summer?
B&J - A pair of spike stud shorts from our Remade collection and a feather headdress from our Urban Outfitters collaboration.
COCAINE -Interesting note about cocainepretti.com ?
B&J - well apart from the cheeky name - I guess like attracts like :) Cocainepretti is a blog we've had on our side since we launched a year and a half ago and it's lovely to see others progressing as quickly as we are. Really excited about the first print issue - congratulations. XXBITCHY GIRLS
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